Wiring Again !

I recently had a dual sport bike I built criticized by it’s new owner (a friend owned it between me and the critic). The list of “complaints” goes on and on, mostly undeserved, some of his own making or lack of understanding, with the harshest ones on my electric's. This critic didn’t care for the quality of the wiring, the selection of the switches, or the mounting of the rectifier and zener. Let us take a look at what my objectives are on any dirt bike wiring scheme. First and foremost is the ignition wiring. It must be robust (wire sizes more than adequate), direct with a minimum of splices or Y connections and I try for no bullet connectors. I use crimp type lugs and connections, pull testing every one made. Soldering can add to the wiring integrity but I have not found it to be absolutely necessary, only nice if you like. Every ignition component (all components for that matter) must be removable from the bike without cutting any wiring in the case of the need for a future repair or chassis disassembly. When lugs are necessary to connect to screw connections the lugs must be a full ring type. All screws or nut fasteners must be secure through a spring lock washer, self locking nut, or LockTite’d on. Wiring must not run back and forth all over the bike as factory harnesses do but be as short as possible. Component location often helps in this regard. Sensitive circuits, like the trigger wiring for a Boyer ignition, need to be shielded from all other wiring. Separating it and putting the frame tubes between it and other wiring helps tremendously. The kill button is so wired as to be able to be disabled in the field if necessary should the button become permanently shorted to the frame (ground). I try to carry all return paths from components in wires not relying on the frame as a conductor. I designate one point on the frame as a single point ground and carry all the return wires to that point. That ground point is attached to the the frame at a point where the paint and coatings have been cleaned off down to bare metal. As a protection from theft I may provide a key switch but behind the switch a set of connectors allowing the switch to be easily by-passed in case the switch fails while in the field (potential thief, don’t listen, please). Why the emphasis on the ignition circuit? If done correctly it may keep you from having to walk back to your truck. By my definition lighting wiring is not a necessity only a legal requirement. I never ride at night and almost never turn on my lights and use my dual sport bikes minimally on roads and highways. But since I have to have lighting I make the wiring simple to minimize it. Firstly I make sure the wires are big enough. I carry each component’s return path through a wire rather than the frame to the same single point ground the ignition circuits use. Being reasonable, the tail light assembly gets one return wire as does the headlight assemble and maybe the kill button if it requires a ground wire. For switching the headlamp on and off and providing the power to the tail light I use a double pole, double throw, center off heavy duty military style toggle switch. The center is headlamp and tail lamp off, one way is high beam on with the tail light on, the other way is low beam on with the tail light on. For the brake lamp circuit I have used automotive brake switches. While bigger and utilitarian looking than the classic Lucas switch they will out last the Lucas switch by ten times. For head lamp assemblies I prefer the modern enduro style number plate types. I have used the very expensive DOT approved type as well as the off-road type. Most policemen, who might stop you and give your motorcycle the eye over, will probably not know the difference. For the tail/stop light assembly I prefer the miniaturized ones that won’t castrate you if you should happen to exit the bike from the rear in a crash or fall down. While they may not be DOT I’ll go with them in the pursuit of minimal pain. I prefer to not use any Energy Transfer Ignition (ET) components as they have proven over the years not to be reliable, and require points to operate. The ET alternator is not all that conducive to being used as a regular alternator. I prefer the newer completely encapsulated two wire alternator but original three wire ones are OK if in good shape. Again the encapsulated variety are the ones of choice. I have used the stock rectifier and zener (the bike in question that was criticized still had this system) but prefer to use either the Tympanium or the Boyer Power Box. I particularly like to use the Boyer Power Box as it can be run without a battery permanently if so desired. For a battery I prefer the sealed dual sport batteries that come with the Honda XR series bikes. If kept on a Battery Tender continuously the battery’s life can be doubled but be sure to unplug it before riding away. I wire a connector onto the bike to make connecting the the Battery Tender a simple task. (This connector on the bike in question was presented by the critic as a indication of meaningless wiring that went nowhere-Has this guy been sleeping under a rock that he didn’t recognize a battery charger connector, the one provided as part of the Battery Tender ?). I include one master fuse between the battery and the rest of the system-more than that complicates field trouble shooting too much and offers little added protection. The new automotive plastic flat fuses are much more rugged than the old glass tube type. Since the Rectifier/regulator components, either modern or original Lucas, generate heat, a way must be made for them to rid themselves of it or they will just burn up and fail. Two methods of heat removal are available: Convection (air flow over the components) or Conduction (mounting to a heat sink like a steel or aluminum plate, aluminum being preferred). If conduction is the heat removal tool of choice be sure if using the zener to use a heat sink paste under it (from Radio Shack) or heat failure is sure to occur. This was another area criticized without the understanding of cooling by conduction. Finally there is the “look” of the wiring (apparently this critic’s major problem with the criticized bike). While I certainly don’t advocate a “rat’s nest” look, it is a waste of time and will impede in the field troubleshooting (remember that long walk back to the truck!) if the wiring is tightly bundled and covered in sheathing. I tie wrap the bundle at crucial points along its’ route taking into account what the vibration and the motion of the forks, for example, will do to it. It is routed to eliminate any chaffing that can cut thorough the wire insulation and short out the system. Simple and robust with consideration for the vibration of off-roading! That is the off road wiring “trick”. Off-roading is physically hard on any electrical system. Continued function while in the field is paramount and should take precedence over its appearance, unless you enjoy walking. I guess I don’t receive criticism very well, especially when every wire on the bike was pre planned on paper, every component location was thoroughly considered, and this wiring worked flawlessly for nearly 5 years of my ownership over hill and dale at breakneck speeds without ever failing. But I guess there must be more to life than simple success. Perhaps pure beauty without function is the answer, like they do in those show bikes and restoration bikes.